Do Knit Fabrics Have a Bias?

Tiramisu- a dress cut (mostly) on the bias

When this question comes up in classes, I used to reply “The short answer is, no.  Knit fabrics behave differently to wovens, only wovens have a true bias.”  That’s not inaccurate, as far as it goes. The long answer is a little more nuanced, and it’s taken me the better part of a year to satisfy myself about whether knit fabrics have a “bias” grain or not.  I think they do, even though the nature of the fabric is different than a regular woven.

I run a few regular searches on google, to find any new blog or forum posts on the topic.  I never found much information online or off about whether knits have a bias grain.  Opinion varies widely on the topic of knit bias, so I knew I would need to experiment on my own to find an answer that satisfied me.
Earlier this year, I made the Bow Tie Tee, a hack of the Blank Canvas Tee and also available as a pdf pattern.  The jersey I chose to use is a relatively beefy cotton t-shirting with moderate stretch.  It’s pretty stable, a good place to start playing with knit grainlines.  When I worked with the pattern, I didn’t approach it as a “woven” or a “knit” pattern, but as a kind of hybrid.  For most woven patterns, you want at least an inch or two of wearing ease to allow you to move and laugh and jump around.  Most knit patterns tend to have “negative” ease, which means the fabric is cut smaller than the body’s measurements so the fabric will stretch and cling to the body.  For the Bow Tie Tee, I worked with 0 ease- neither extra fabric like a woven, nor “negative” ease like a knit.

I did this because I wanted to play with stripes.  Why else?  The front yoke is cut with horizontal stripes, and the stretch runs the direction it should in a typical knit pattern- that is, the stretch lies around the body.  For the lower front piece, I turned the fabric on its side.  I wasn’t sure this would work, because it’s not usually the way knit fabric is used.  Turns out, it works just fine- probably because I only did this on one section of the garment, not the entire shirt.  This is one of my favorite tops, I’ve been wearing it for months now and I find no problem with the cut or the grain.  It doesn’t bind or ride up, in fact when I put on this shirt I cease to remember I’m wearing clothes.  That’s always my aim.

The back uses another kind of grain altogether- a “bias” grain.  I did this because I have an undying love of back interest and chevron stripes.  Again, I had no idea if this would work because it’s not usually done, but it turned out well.  I noticed that the back seems to have a different kind of “give” and “hug” than a regular knit top.  When I wear the shirt backwards for a plain v-neck front (this works well!), I notice the fabric molds and skims over my bust and waist in a pleasing way.

front, “Lamington,” a work in progress

I tried a similar back bias treatment when working up samples for another upcoming pattern.  (I make and wear samples extensively before working them into a full multi-sized pattern.) This time, the front is quite plain with the stretch running around the body as it would on a normal knit pattern.

I left this one unhemmed to see the effect of the CB downward “growth” more clearly.  You can see that the back has indeed grown longer than the front, and as it stretches downward it gently pulls the side seam to the back.  This is quite clear when I lay the garment out flat, but when I put it on my body fills the shirt and the seams lie where they should.  The back “bias” pieces behave almost exactly the way I would expect a woven bias cut to behave, but with the knit fabric the bias effect is somewhat more pronounced.  Interesting!

The stripes show you clearly that the side seam is cut on the “straight” of grain, and the CF is “bias.”

I took it to the next level with my samples of the Tiramisu dress.  The skirt is cut with the straight of grain at the side and a “bias” seam at the center front and back.  When I first started playing with this concept, I had no idea if it would work in a knit.  I know that “straight” sides and “bias” CF and CB seams works to make a very flattering silhouette in a woven, and I was keen to try on a knit.

thats some good rippling…  The jersey is one of those “modern” jerseys that stays wrinkled… Not sure I love the effect… But I do love this dress.

I’m happy to say it does work quite well on knit fabrics.  I’ve tested it on rather light weight (striped version), medium weight (several muslins), and even a double-layered jersey (red version) to see how the fabric behaves when treated in this manner.  I couldn’t be more pleased with the gentle rippling effect, though I have discovered that a knit bias dress should be hung unhemmed overnight so it can “settle” the same as a woven.

Tiramisu front bodice piece

The bodice for Tiramisu was also interesting.  I liked the stripe placement on a similar woven dress (1950’s pattern I made for Mother’s Day) and hoped it would work for a knit.  It does.  However, I discovered that due to the way the stretch lies on the body (nearly vertical) and the weight of the skirt, the top bodice section tends to stretch.

Made of a heavy weight double layered jersey, works quite well.

Further, I discovered that it’s more or less a standard amount of stretching regardless of the weight of the fabric used.  Lighter fabrics usually stretch more than heavy ones, but the lighter dresses don’t weigh as much as the heavier ones, so it seems to come out even.  In this case, we’re working with the nature of the fabric (stretch), the weight of the fabric, and gravity.

This means that for the underbust seam to lie under the bust, the pattern itself must be quite a bit shorter that the shoulder-to-underbust raw measurement.  If I hold the upper bodice pattern piece up to my own body, it doesn’t seem like it will work.  However, comprehensive testing and understanding how the fabric will behave has shown me how to produce a consistent result.

I also use a carefully-calibrated piece of neck binding to help “snug up” the neck opening to prevent tumbling out of the dress.  I hate having to think about my clothes after I put them on, especially having to worry about that particular issue.  The short binding works well for keeping the neckline in shape without using another kind of stabilizer.  The binding itself is cut on the cross-grain (without much stretch) and about 3/4″ shorter than my neckline opening.  I eased it in, and the result is solid and light.

I have satisfied myself that knit does have a “bias.”  While the nature and structure of a knit fabric is quite different than a woven, I can not deny that knit fabrics behave differently on the body (and with a pattern) when cut on the bias than when cut “straight.”  Furthermore, I think that when a knit is cut on the “bias,” it behaves in much the same way as a woven bias, but more so.

What do you think? Have you ever experimented with knit bias?  Do you know of a great blog post, article, or book on the subject?  I haven’t really found much that was helpful, just a handful of forum postings and a few pages that rambled about knit fabrics.  I’d be quite happy to hear any and all thoughts on this!

(Also… I have some fun sewing for Stephen coming up… I made him some long-sleeved linen work shirts years ago, he gets compliments from the other ecologists whenever he wears them and has requested a few more!  Cool.  I’m planning to use Negroni, I’ve been dying to make it up!  And Lila could use a few new pieces, I’m designing some girlie versions of my ladies’ stuff to try on her.  Should be fun!)

Pictutorial- Knit Binding

In yesterday’s post, while celebrating the happy marriage of knit fabrics + 50’s boleros, I mentioned finishing the sleeve hems and bottom edge of the bolero with an extra wide knit binding, done in the usual way.  Commentator (is that actually the correct word or is my spellcheck whack?) Marthaeliza asked where she could find that method.   I’m so red-faced!  I haven’t explicitly addressed this technique, though I do use it in my patterns and hacks.  I also used it to create the fauxlero seaming interest on the recent 40’s Charm Tee:

There are many, many ways to finish a knit neck, sleeve or hem edge.  This is one way.  I like to know as many ways to do something (like finish a neck edge) as possible.  One way may work better in certain situations, etc.  This is my go-to basic bound edge.  Even when a pattern states otherwise, I usually finish neck edges this way.  I have seen some truly terrifying (not to mention fiddly, difficult or just plain silly) ways to finish a knit neckline- this is the simplest and most versatile method in my arsenal.

Cut a binding strip 1.5″ (3.75cm) and somewhat longer than the to-be-bound edge.  On a neckline edge, my usual method involves sewing one shoulder seam, inserting the binding, and catching the ends of the binding in the shoulder seam edge.  When done neatly, it makes no difference to the appearance of the finished garment.  Also, I’m sure there’s rules about it, but I cut my binding strips both along the stretch and along the length of the fabric, as seems handiest at the time.  I have never seen much of a difference.

Fold in half lengthwise, right sides facing out, and press.

To sew it on a flat edge, simply match up the raw edges and stitch.  A 1/4″ (6mm) seam allowance is the norm for knits.  USE BALLPOINT NEEDLES.

I use a “lightning bolt” stitch on my machine for sewing knits because it allows the garment to stretch.  If you use straight stitches, the seam will “pop” under stress.  If you don’t have a lightning bolt stitch, play around with a narrow (width) and long (length) stitch until you come up with something like mine.  I used a contrasting thread to show my stitching, usually I go for something that blends into the fabric.

Trim off any extra binding.

I also overlock/serge seams on knits because while it isn’t necessary to prevent fabric fraying, it does create a sturdier, longer lasting seam.
Curves are tricker to bind, but not by much.  Do test it on a few little samples first if you’ve never done it before or if you’re working with a new fabric.  There’s a little “fingertip knowledge” that must be built before you get consistent results.  But it won’t take long and it’s worth the practice.  Or just make a few shirts with wibbly necklines, that’s ok too.

I place the binding and neck edge under the foot with the raw edges lined up for the first inch or so.  Pins are much more a hindrance than help here.  I take a few stitches to secure the beginning of the binding to the garment.
After the first few stitches, I gently stretch the binding around the curve of the neck.  The lower fingers on my right hand keep the garment fabric from stretching.  DO NOT STRETCH THE GARMENT FABRIC.  I use my right thumb and forefinger to gently stretch the binding, and my left-hand fingers guide the binding into place.  It just takes a little coordination.

Stephen took a short clip to show you how my fingers move.  Isn’t he sweet?

Wrong side, before finishing or pressing.  Just trim off any extra, no sweat.
Right side, after pressing the seam toward the body of the “garment.”  You can also top-stitch along this seam, about 1/8″ from the seamline.

Questions?  I’m listening.  Later this week I’ll tackle a few other questions I’ve come across in blog reading and from y’all, I like addressing specific questions.

The banner is my “sweater knit” from the bolero.  I don’t know what else to call it, it’s thickish like a sweatshirt but has a knit “look.”

Check out the crazy fabrics my daughter wanted made into a dress:

Perfect for this week’s Challenge at Sew Weekly…

Tomorrow: I finally finished “The Diamond Chariot” (see sidebar) and it’s just one of those books you have to tell everyone about.  So I’m telling y’all about it tomorrow.  It’s Russian.  Book Review Time!

Finished Object: 40’s Charm Hack and Tee!

It’s finished!  I dropped off the radar completely for a few days, thank you for being so understanding.  I don’t know what I had, but it was awful.  The past couple of days are a blur, I drank soup and vitamin-C smoothies Stephen doled out and caught up on Sherlock Holmes.  Except I was so out of it, I can probably re-watch them and they’ll seem new.  Then I woke up this morning, was alarmed to discover it’s Friday already and felt much more like myself- except for a croaky voice.

At any rate, I put this version of the 40’s Charm Hack together in about an hour and a half this afternoon.  I simplified the design, removing both the lower ruching and the bust ruching to highlight the interesting neckline and the faux-lero seaming.

I used the same wonderfully slubbed linen-cotton jersey as Lacy Blank Canvas and SpinaLace.  I like wearing white, this jersey blend is very soft and easy to work with, and besides it’s what I had lying around the house. And most of my whites are pink now and I miss my white tees.

I’m wearing the hack here with Minerve, a linen-cotton woven skirt cut from a late 30’s/early 40’s French mail-order pattern.  She’s a workhorse skirt.

I also slightly lowered the neckline, as a sharp-eyed commentator pointed out my original neckline was a little higher than the inspiration.  I like it.

I even put my hair up in a reverse victory roll to keep the 40’s vibe going.  I haven’t worn this style much since I cut my hair last year, I forgot how much I love it!

To download the pdf of the hack (with heaps of construction photos!), click the 40’s Charm line drawing above.  Should I make her into a pattern?  I will if there’s interest, I already drafted the sizes to make sure it would work- so that’s half the job done already.

May’s Hack will be much more forthright, I’ve had her on my mind since February and I know she works!  Fingers crossed I don’t have the same drama and can get her out by the end of the month!

As soon as I get over this bullfrog-throat, I plan to make another video or two…

Once again, thank you so so much for your thoughts and kind words when I wasn’t well.  It means a lot to me.

Finished Object: Bow Tie Tee

Yesterday, I set to work on February’s “Hack” of the Blank Canvas Tee– The Bow Tie Tee.  I drew inspiration from two dresses from the 1930’s and the 50’s combined with some navy and white pinstriped jersey I had lying around.  It’s leftovers from a t-shirt I cut for my husband.  A t-shirt I have yet to actually stitch together.

The design draws on both inspiration dresses, and then goes off in its own direction.  I had a ridiculously good time planning the stripe placement.  Would turning the stretch fabric on its side for the lower front piece work, or would I have another Icarus on my hands?  I held my breath during construction, but it works well.  I’m itching to make a quick second version of this with a screaming bright contrast for the yoke…

I wanted an interesting back because all the simple tops I’ve been sewing lately leave me longing for something a little juicy like matching pinstripes along a “bias” seam.  Of course, you could always opt to make a plain and simple back.

I’m happy with this top, but I want to take it into dress territory.  I like the sound of a knee-length skirt with four box pleats (under each apex point…), perhaps in plain navy.  Yes?

I also lengthened this top as so many pattern testers are rather unimpressed by my shorter knit tops.  I don’t mind either way.   If you have any tweaks to suggest for this design, I’m happy to listen.  (Also, if you’ve downloaded my basic BCT and have any constructive criticism about fit, do let me know before I start making a multi-sized Bow Tie Tee pattern!)

I just sort of jumped in with both feet on this year-long Tee project without planning it out or explaining much, so here goes:

I like having a self-imposed monthly design challenge, and I like sharing my process here.  If you’re curious about what future months may look like, take a look at my Hack Ideas board on pinterest.  I’m easily swayed by re-pins and “likes”– I see these hacks a collaborative project between me and you lovely ladies of the online sewing community.

(It was raining when we took photos today, I’m trying to catch a drop)

Without letting this project take over the blog (yawn!), I plan to post the month’s design inspiration in the first or second week of the month.  You all give me thumbs up and/or down, and then I go do some pattern chopping.  I show you my finished garment (a top or a dress or a cardigan or sweatshirt) in the second or third week.  Fourth week- I publish the drafting instructions.  Then I publish a multi-sized pattern on Craftsy- that wasn’t originally part of my plan but I’m pleased to do it.  How’s that for a game of sewing?

Note: I *believe* I am caught up with my emails, but if I owe you one please remind me!  My little girl keeps getting into my mailbox on my phone and re-arranging my universe.

Finished Object: “Merino Kimono” Wrap Top

Remember my obsessive crush on Advance 7701?  And how Jane lent me her copy?  And how I made it up in a vintage-inappropriate cotton knit and vowed to make another in merino for winter wear?

I did it.  The Sew Weekly challenge this week was “Down Under” (reverse seasons).  I thought since the fabric came from New Zealand (a gift from Leimomi when she visited, no less!) and it’s summer here, I went ahead and made my winter merino version.  This fabric is incredible.  It’s smooth and softer than soft against my skin.  And, ever thoughtful and detail-oriented, Leimomi chose a perfect shade of teal.

If you’d like to read the brief rundown on the project, check out my post on Sew Weekly.

Over the past few months, I devoted quite some time to learning to put patterns online.  That’s part of what the Blank Canvas Tee was for.  The patterns aren’t as flashy and professional looking as I’d like, but I think I have the basic idea down.  I consider this a big milestone in my own sewing, because I tend to work with hard-to-find or completely made up patterns.  Then I share what I did and- well- I always felt a little guilty for going on and on about patterns no one else can find.

With this top, I have adapted the pattern for modern sewing techniques and fabrics (like this perfect knit).  I think the pattern will be “perfect” after one more tweak.  For the merino top, I eliminated the horizontal bust dart.  It’s not a big deal on this top, but in the future I will put it back.   I think if I created some gentle “easing” type shaping instead of the dart, it would be just the ticket.

My point is, have you seen Craftsy’s new independent pattern section?  It’s amazing, and I’m really excited to watch how it will work.  And I want in!  The Blank Canvas Tee and hacks will always be available for free.   However, if I start putting some of my favorite self-made patterns on Craftsy for sale then perhaps I can help pay the rent.  Maybe I could eventually afford some red Astorias!

The back of the short sleeved cotton version. Both sleeve lengths would be included in my craftsy pattern.

I like this pattern a LOT, not the least because it’s an unexpected cut, very comfortable and takes about an hour to sew.  I know this one will hardly leave my back come winter- in fact I have plans to make several once cold weather hits (and when I can afford a little more merino… it’s my new fabric crack…).

If I didn’t attach the ties and left it open, it would look like one of those drapey open-front cardigans everyone is wearing…

What do you think?  If I put this pattern up on Craftsy, my own modern translation of the cut and with full instructions, would you be interested?  Are there any of my other self-made or “translated” patterns you’d love to see available on Craftsy?


Finished Object: Advance 7701

(Since these are at home clothes, we took photos while pottering around the house.)

Handmade Jane kindly lent me this pattern (which should be on its way back home now, thank you!) after I became obsessed with finding a 1950’s wrap blouse pattern.

I had to know if it would work for knits- specifically, if it would work with some delicious Merino Leimomi brought me.  I traced and cut it unaltered except the grainline and sleeve length.  I shifted the pattern piece around until the stripes ran nicely along the shoulder line, which created a chevron effect at the back seam.  I used a medium weight cotton knit.

I decided not to stay tape the edges of the shirt (laziness research…) and followed the pattern almost to the letter.  I left off the back darts, next time I will leave out the front darts.  The pattern has a set of shoulder darts starting at the neck and extending into the sleeve, which gently shapes the garment.  I left those.

The lower back edge of the shirt tucks into my pants, about 2″.  It’s a clever way to keep my muffins from showing when I bend and move.  Win.  I’m wearing my Jean Ross pants, they’re the last pair I made before I learned to fit pants properly.

I wish I had a top like this when I was a new mother!  It’s slouchy and comfortable but has a little style to it, not to mention nursing access. The fabric reminds me of pajamas.  I can’t convince myself otherwise so this lives in my “mommy” clothes category.  I don’t wear regular t-shirts, but I do like working with easy care fabrics.

Stephen went out to monitor lungfish again today and brought home more yabbies.  This time, I quit being a wuss and held one myself. It’s like holding a rock.

A rock that flicks its tail at you just when you let your guard down.  I’m not entirely convinced they don’t spit poison darts or have lasers attached to their heads, despite my husband’s assurances otherwise.  The blue yabbies are definitely winning the Lobster Dress race right now.

This is a very wearable muslin and gave me ideas for how to make it in merino.  Not now while Brisbane’s both roasting and steaming, the merino will wait for “Autumn.”  Perhaps around Easter I’ll revisit this pattern…

Kimbersew asked what the yabbies look like after cooking.  Here’s a mess of boiled ones:

Next: Making Street-Art Stencil T-Shirts.  That may take a few days over the weekend.  :)

Finished Objects: Explorations in Scallops and Stripes

Yep, hubris got in the way.  The top of the skirt doesn’t sit at my waist (where I usually wear them), but down around my hipbones.  Since this is a summery casual skirt, I don’t really care.  Not enough to screw around with the pockets at the side seams, not even enough to take out the zipper.

Once a student said to me something like “well, back in the old days people didn’t wear a whole lot of color, all greys and blacks mostly.”  I don’t think that’s true, but I think it’s easy to forget that brilliant colors existed before Technocolor.  Casually thumbing any old women’s magazine demonstrates that.  They often use adjectives such as “eye-blinding” or “violent” to describe color (May 1945).  I often wonder how much black and white photography colors ahem our ideas of how people dressed “back in the old days,” even in subtle ways.

I call the shirt Elsa, after the inspiration from Casablanca.  In the summer, I often reach for my husband’s shirts for comfort.  We’re much the same size, with different contours.   My clothes are often more fitted, while his are looser.  While pondering how best to approach this boldly-striped cotton doubleknit, I realized I could use his t-shirt pattern for myself.  Easy.  I nipped in the waist a little, and shaped the hem for kicks.

These aren’t work clothes exactly, neither are they grungy house-clothes.   I’d call this my meeting-up-with-a-girlfriend-and-Lila-in-Chinatown-for-lunch-at-King’s-Diner outfit.  The length and waistline feel a little funny, but I’ll get used to it. (That reminds me, I should write a review of King’s Diner.  Yum.)

I did wear the top to work today, though I don’t think it will go into the regular work rotation.

Thanks for all your kind words when I was sick, I’m feeling better now.

Next in the pipeline- A micro-houndstooth shirt any 50’s housewife would envy…

Wins and Fails in Winter Sewing

(Favorite combination of palazzo cords, husband sweater, and trilobite cabled beanie)
I had some plans for this winter.  I was testing a few new-to-me styles and fabrics, figuring out what works for me and what doesn’t.  All in the name of science…
What worked for me for winter?
Win- Flanelette 1930’s House Coat:
This is by far my favorite.  It has precisely served its purpose.  The long flannel skirt made it snuggly, but I didn’t feel completely sloppy around the house.  I want to make a similar one in a fine batik cotton for summer, maybe a different style.Fail- Just because the pattern envelope suggests jersey doesn’t mean it’s a good idea.

I intended to make the top in the left corner from a medium weight New Zealand merino.  Wisely, I tried it first in a soft, cheap rayon:
The wool would only have been slightly heavier than the rayon, so it might be firmer but I wasn’t willing to risk it for a house shirt.  I do like this shirt, and wear it though I never finished it more than a quick muslin.

Fail- Those pants were another incomplete failure.  They are too short with shoes.  Because I -ahem- measured the hem while barefoot.  I like them anyway and wore them all winter.

Win- Persephone Weskit

I really, really like this semi-tailored weskit.  I reached for it on rushed mornings to pull two pieces together.  Many of my work basics are black and white, and the weskit (I hope) camouflages a less than perfectly ironed blouse.  The fabric proved both sturdy and hard to wrinkle.

It’s getting to be the bright time of year, every picture from this morning’s Self-Stitched-September shoot captures an awkward face.  Time to dust off the sun-jacket.

I’m looking at a few favorites from last summer, to help guide this year’s sewing.  I’m thinking a palette of crisp white, clear blue-red, baby blue, and aqua.   I’ll post more this weekend, plenty of free time.

 (Wholesome Dress, an unexpected winter favorite)

Also, I just saw a post on Dress a Day… I’m so excited, Erin’s blog has informed how I think about clothing and sewing, especially Dressing for Joy.  It’s what turned me to sewing for myself, in a style I enjoy.  Thank you, Erin.

Finished Object: Ruffles (have ridges) Top

Complete!  I remember an apocryphal story of how the potato chip came to be:  
In the summer of 1853, George Crum was employed as a chef at an elegant resort in Saratoga Springs, New York. One dinner guest found Crum’s French fries too thick for his liking and rejected the order. Crum decided to rile the guest by producing fries too thin and crisp to skewer with a fork. The plan backfired. The guest was ecstatic over the browned, paper-thin potatoes, and other diners began requesting Crum’s potato chips.
I remember versions of this story involving the diner sending the potatoes back repeatedly until Crum became rather sarcastic and purposefully over-did his diner’s request.  
That’s how I feel about this top.  Don’t worry, I’m sick of it now, and won’t be geeking out over pattern making again for a little while..  My first three versions (I only showed you the best one!) were sickly weak cowls at best.  
No one could call this a sickly weak cowl.  I might have taken it too far, especially given my physical proportions.   
Well over two feet of drapes.   For the first time in longer than I can remember, I feel a little timid about wearing something I made in public.
That said, I rather like the ridiculous drapes because they remind me of classical sculpture.  
 (photo monkeyed with)

The aqua pleases me, I don’t have any clothes this color.  And of course, bamboo jersey feels like a delicious dream against your skin. 

Shoulder pleat detail.  Not much to see here.  I did move the pleats closer to the neck which upset my marked pleats so I had to make new symmetrical pleats on the fly.  I’m not a fan of messing around with details like that as I sew, rather preferring to settle those types of issues before I even turn on my machine.  By the way, the pleating created much less bulk than I anticipated.

All photos by Lila.

Husband prepared a lovely post on yogurt-making without special equipment, stay tuned!

Finished Objects: Burda Bardot Tops

I made the black in a medium weight bamboo knit with about 2% spandex.  I plan to review bamboo knit fabrics in the future, so I’ll save my thoughts on the fabric.
Many, many reviewers bemoan this eye-catching raglan’s wide neck and deep front.  I had a RTW top like this years ago and always thought the bust section could stand an extra 1/2″ so the bust seam hit below my actual bust.  I altered the lower seam of the top portion of the bodice to reflect that, but refrained from changing the shape of the neckline until I made a muslin:
(I think I was pretending to do the Haka)

This photographs better than the black.  It’s a rayon/lycra, basically a lighter weight version of the black top.  It’s a little more flesh that I usually show, but it works for me.  After making this one, I added about 1/2″ to the front bust neckline, tapering to nothing at the top of the sleeve.
The difference is between the two shirts is not obvious.  I made a regular t-shirt type neckline, and then gathered the front.  It doesn’t sit perfectly, when I make this again I’ll gather the front section and then bind the neck.  The t-shirt neck edge seemed cleaner than the narrow facing and worked well.

(With my Maria Jeans)

I’ll probably make this again, though I think I might nip in the waist a little.  I made a 38, which fits my high bust and waist, but the pattern seems to have extra ease built in.   While I don’t have problems with my bra strap showing, I do kind of tumble out of it when I bend over.

The pink comes as something of a surprise to me- it was cheapish knit intended for muslining, but I like the color and the slub so much I actually finished the shirt.

Always nice to have a good surprise!