I don’t want to promise to make all your pants-fitting dreams come true- but I can help you achieve your trouser-fitting goals. I’ve been working at this for a year, and I’m happy with the consistent results I’ve achieved collaborating with women all around the world via email.
A few of my happy clients can be found at this post.
The Pants Block Service is two parts- first, a custom drafted pants block. Second, I guide you through the process of refining your draft if necessary until you have a well-fitted pants block that you can use as an alteration tool.
It will greatly speed up the process if you email me photos of you in a t-shirt and leggings with a bit of elastic around your waist to guide me while I draft. I look at bodies and see pattern pieces, that is the way my brain works.
To make sure we’re all on the same page, I work from this definition of good fit for pants: Elements of Good Fit- Pants
Reasonable Expectations- This method of drafting works for most body types and I’m refining my work all the time. At first, I used the Maria Martin pants template, but I have since developed my own refinements and process and don’t use this method any more.
We may need to tweak your draft. Don’t worry! We will work through it together. If you decide you want to leave it for a little while, you can pick it up at any time and we will work until you are happy with the fit.
Honesty- I have a lot of experience working with pants drafting in classes where I can actually measure my students. I know what a block made from correct measurements should look like, even if it does need to be tweaked. If you do not provide the correct measurements, the pants block will not fit. I can not take responsibility for incorrect measurements.
I don’t see measurements as anything more than numbers to plug into a mathematic equation, which disappears from my mind as soon as the draft is complete. When you receive your pants block, it is labeled with your name- not a number.
Privacy- Of course, I will never discuss your private information with others. Ever. The Consulting Dressmaker is the soul of discretion.
I do add measurements to an anonymous spreadsheet, in hopes I can build a pants sizing system that works for a wide range of body shapes. If you would prefer I do not use your information for that purpose, please let me know.
Weight Fluctuations- For small weight fluctuations, you can still use the same block. However, if you fluctuate by quite a bit (20+ pounds), we can re-draft for half price.
Timing and Payment- The cost of a custom pants block and fitting support is $40 for postal delivery and $50 for electronic delivery (pdfs are more complicated and time consuming than hard-copy drafts). Fill out this form and I will invoice you for the block via Paypal.
Note: I do not ask for crotch rise because it is irrelevant to my process and besides, it’s a highly subjective measurement. The crotch rise is the last thing we customize for your block, it’s a very simple process.
Once payment goes through, you will be put on my list. Wednesday is set aside as my pants drafting day. I will let you know when it has shipped, or when I’m in the process of tiling and scaling it electronically.
I can provide expedited service for an additional $15, which means you will receive your block within 24 hours of confirmation of payment.
I prefer to drop your block in the post.
What You Get- A tiled pdf or a copy of the hand-drawn pattern. My work is clean, but I do draw them by hand and not computer.
The pants blocks have no seam allowances, as this is often a personal preference of the sewist depending on the types of patterns she works with. If you generally use the same seam allowances in your sewing, then go ahead and draw them on your block. It helps when you’re using the block as an alteration tool.
Making the Muslin- I ask that you make a muslin after you add your seam allowances. You don’t need to use a zipper or even finish the seams, but please make a muslin without changing the pattern so you and I are both “on the same page.”
This pants block has ease already built in. Part of the tweaking process will involve altering the ease if necessary. This block is for woven fabrics, but can be altered to work with stretch.
Use a basting stitch and the order of sewing in the muslin instructions. This makes our fitting process simpler.
“Tweaking”- We’ll tweak via an exchange of emails and photos, or on skype.
If you choose to take photos, please take side, front and back photos so I can see what’s going on. Don’t get fancy, just stand straight and normally. The “normall-er” you stand, the better the final fit/drape.
It’s very possible you’ll need to tweak- we can do that together unless you’re quite sure what to do to change the pattern.
I answer Consulting Dressmaker emails Wednesday through Saturday. During those days, I strive to answer all alterations emails within 24 hours.
Using your Block to Alter Commercial Pants Patterns- This is the *real* reason to make a pants block. Once you do, you can easily use it to alter commercial patterns. It’s best to start with a simple pants pattern, then progress to trickier ones. This is an intuitive process more than a “Do this, now do that” cut-and-dried tutorial.
The Pants Block Service covers drafting and fitting your block and setting you on the path to make your first pair of pants post-block. Should you require any further guidance making your dream pants, please make an appointment with the Consulting Dressmaker. Remember- the first one’s free!
Client Reviews- Feel free to post about your experience with the pants block, here or on your own blog or discussion forums.
However, if you have any issues or problems at all during this process, it is my sincere hope you’ll tell me before you tell anyone else, so we can work on it together.