No post yesterday- I teach on Tuesday nights and while I could schedule a post I don’t like to. It lacks immediacy, call me old-fashioned. (Others who blog, do you schedule posts on a regular basis?)
For the rest of this week, I want to zero in on some denim details. On Monday, we looked at RTW jeans-style waistbands/belt loops.
Tonight (this morning?), I have a new Visual Reference Guide at sewingcake.com for you. It’s a very clear step by step guide to drafting a back yoke on the Hummingbird Skirt. The same steps and logic can be applied to other skirts or pants, and it’s pretty clear even for someone who might not draft much but would like to add a little design interest to a plain skirt. Take a look.
The resulting yoke is a less-traditional shape like the yoke on the Pinkie Pants. I like the way the seaming wraps around my body, it’s subtly unexpected. I wrote the Visual Reference Guide so that your Hummingbird Denim Yoke seam would wrap around your body and flow into the pocket seam in a similar way. I also wrote in how to make a more traditional V-yoke.
Meanwhile, let’s check out other back yoke treatments for inspiration:
This is a fairly ordinary back yoke. In general, a back yoke seam is flat-felled and functions as an alternative to a back dart. That is, it introduces a curve in the backside area. For some very curvy bodies, a back yoke + small dart may be necessary.
Generally, the back yoke seams slope gently down toward the CB seam, a few fingerwidths higher than the widest part of the backside curve. Cool pocket variation shown here, and click here for a useful perspective on the visual effects of pocket size.
As with waistbands and belt loops and threads, back yokes vary widely. I like the extra little seam here, from Armani. Extra seaming = extra labor costs for cutting/sewing = pricier garment.
These jeans are from the same maker, Armani, and you can see they’re as different as can be from the other pair. The wash (color), the shape and position of the yoke, and the distance between the stitches. It’s an extra wide flat fell seam.
These lavishly embellished women’s jeans have a surprisingly straight yoke seam with a double belt loop back detail.
This back yoke is nothing special, but I rather like the crossed belt loops and the seamed pockets. Note the angle of the pocket flaps.
And for the finale, this quirky-cute back yoke. I imagine it would be a pain in the neck to sew, but the result is worth it. I rather like the pockets, too, what do you think? I’d almost call it Art Deco style, except… it’s a denim skirt…
While I was looking around for some interesting back yokes for this post, I found a very cool article on Jeans Anatomy.
Tomorrow: Hemp-Cotton Denim Torture Testing / Sample Sewing / Denim Threads and also How to Calculate Fabric Weight
Then: The Big Reveal and Guide to Sewing with Hammers