It’s been too long since a Conversant In Color post!  I still have a few color concepts rattling around in my brain that won’t go away, so I thought I’d pick up the series by exploring the color choices of Michelle Obama, the First Lady of the United States.  It’s nearly Election Day!  I always found elections exciting times, even when I was a little kid.  While I don’t live in the U.S., I am aware that this presidential campaign has been vitriolic.  Please, let’s let that go for a little while and simply take a look at how the First Lady uses color.

Mrs Obama and I have radically different coloring, climate, and performance needs (when was the last time *I* had the Chinese Prime Minister to dinner?), but after much digging in Google Images I realized we have some similar ideas on color.   For one, she doesn’t shy away from using color freely in her wardrobe.  Naturally, she wears black and white and beige neutrals like anyone else, but for events ranging from state dinners and goodwill tours abroad to “mom-in-chief” moments and awareness campaigns, the First Lady turns to colors she knows she can rely on.

The more I looked, the more I saw that the First Lady works from a pretty tight color palette.  She does occasionally deviate from her “colors,” but these variations just show the wisdom of her stock color choices:

Yellow

Orange

I like these colors together.  On her!

Orange, what looks like a full maxi skirt… Oh swoon…!

Pink

Red

She carries herself so well- next to her, two of the world’s most powerful men (Hu Jintao, Barack Obama) look like mere politicians.  She is regal- and doesn’t deny her height by slumping over.

Purple

Blue

The lesson here- if you’re going to stand out in a crowd, then own it.  Here, the First Lady stands out for her height and skin color, two unchangeable physical attributes.  She shines in this sapphire frock.

The same dress, after hours.

Head-to-toe, every inch a lady.  The First Lady.

Green

I gathered all these images to show the First Lady’s “go-to” color palette.  When thinking about use of color in the wardrobe, it’s easy to think of clear divisions between “warm” and “cool” coloring.  Mrs Obama’s palette does not easily fall into these categories- check out the way she wears both blue-purples and red-purples equally well.

However, it is important to note that all of the colors we’ve looked at share a common trait- they are clear and/or brilliant.  I’m no expert on dressing darker skin, but to me it seems the more saturated colors work incredibly well with her depth of coloring.  For the First Lady, the important factor in choosing color is not “warm” or “cool” as much as wearing colors as rich as her natural tones.  She also looks very well in plain color or clear abstract patterns.

This is a good trick to remember regardless of your personal coloring- try matching the saturation of the colors you wear to your natural coloring.  This may or may not suit your personality, but it’s likely you’ll discover new color-friends this way.

Gray is a great “invisibility” color for the First Lady.  A quietly flattering blending-in color, like we talked about in the Separates post.  We all need a little invisibility sometimes, right?

Out of many possibilities, I chose this dress to illustrate my point about the First Lady and her color choices.  Each individual color on this dress may well work for her- worn separately.  They’re perhaps a trifle bland for her, a little washed out.  The print is not my taste to begin with, and I’m not sure it really does the First Lady any favors.  Some have dubbed this the “slipcover dress,” but I think that’s rather rude of them.  Even if it isn’t her best look.  We can’t win them all!

First Lady Michelle Obama injects more glamor into the White House than it has seen since the days of Jackie Kennedy.  She’s not a pampered socialite, she’s not a model, she’s not a young woman in years despite her athleticism and vigor.  She’s a normal woman who does the best with what she has.  I think that’s why I admire her so much- because she’s a woman who quite obviously does the very best she can with her life and the opportunities she has.  This goes beyond clothes.

This is my current favorite First Lady dress, the one she wore to deliver a speech at the DNC last month.  Some of her words have stuck in my mind since then-

If farmers and blacksmiths could win independence from an empire…if immigrants could leave behind everything they knew for a better life on our shores…if women could be dragged to jail for seeking the vote…if a generation could defeat a depression, and define greatness for all time…if a young preacher could lift us to the mountaintop with his righteous dream…and if proud Americans can be who they are and boldly stand at the altar with who they love then surely, surely we can give everyone in this country a fair chance at that great American Dream.

Because in the end, more than anything else, that is the story of this country – the story of unwavering hope grounded in unyielding struggle.

I know it’s easy to get caught up in all the noise and conflicting opinions surrounding the election, but I keep going back to that- we can vote, we have our nation and our rights because of the struggles of those who have come before us.  This is no small thing.  People died so we can have what we have- and what are we doing with our hard-won rights?  It’s not just heros and legends who make our history, it’s the ordinary people the First Lady speaks of who looked around at their world and thought they could make it a better place.

We can make our world a better place.

At the risk of being bossy, please vote, Americans.  It’s your choice who you vote for, not mine (I voted a few weeks ago), but vote because the simple act of exercising your rights validates those unyielding struggles of which the First Lady spoke.

What do you think?  Saturated colors best on the First Lady?  Which is your favorite dress?  Did I leave one out you love?  Which one?  I have other Color concept posts, but it was fun to cyber-stalk the First Lady and tease out her color theories… Should I do someone else next?  Who?

(I am sorry!  I tried posting this two evenings in a row, my wordpress would not upload photos!  I got up early this morning to try publishing, that seemed to do the trick. Except half my photos disappeared after publish.  Had to re-insert them..  Sorry!)

Previously in Coversant In Color, I focused on fabric shopping and learning to reach for solids over crazy prints for reliable sewing outcomes. Let me be clear- I don’t hate crazy prints. I don’t hate whimsy either, whimsy is my best friend.  It’s just that whimsy and I are separate people.

Bold, high-contrast stripes… I want this!

Today, I want to talk about color, separates and personal coloring.  It might be helpful to have read the other posts in this series:

• Warm or Cool?
• Observation As A Color Tool
• Harmonizing with Your Environment
• Fabric Buying 1
• Fabric Buying 2

This is another more “practical” guide than a conceptual post.

Separates In the Wardrobe

A “separate” refers to a top and a bottom.  A tee with jeans, a wrap top with a circle skirt, a blouse with a pencil skirt, a chic knit top tunic with skinny cut pants.

Simple wardrobe, for “contrast” dressing. Click for source.

These serve as the main garments worn on the body, but are usually accessorized with belts, bags, shoes and jewelry.  I think it’s pretty easy to overlook accessories but they often make the difference between “putting on clothes” and “dressing.”  I do both, and I would guess you do too. But that’s a topic many others besides me have covered.  (Favorite accessories links in comments?)

Putting together separates that will work well together isn’t cut and dried, and depends on Instead, I recommend thinking about your personality, personal coloring, and the statemen while you consider three “Colored Separates Types.”

Type 1: Contrast and Drama

High-contrast personal coloring craves a wardrobe with sharp color contrast between separates.  I read this in a book called Color Me Beautiful.  That concept stuck in my head because it explained to me why I found it hard to wear a pastel top and khaki pants.  Or tones of one color.  It never seemed to work well for me.

Click for source

My own coloring is dark hair, light skin and light eyes.  If there’s a big difference between the shades of your coloring (natural or otherwise), chances are you’ll look most “put together” in separates that contrast with one another.  I understand that “high contrast” dressing also works well for those who have very dark skin because the whites of the eyes contrast beautifully with darker skin tones.

Click for source

In fact, as far as I can tell from observation, I think those with very dark skin can pretty much wear any colors they like.  (Tell me if I’m wrong!  I’m curious, so I’ve been looking around.)

Click for source- great blog post about ways to wear black skirts and white tops.

This doesn’t mean the colors chosen for the separates have to clash.  Dressing for contrast means that each garment reads as a separate color when you look in the mirror.  You might want a belt to finish off a look, but you don’t “need” it to create a focal point for the outfit.

click for source

Suggested prints: bold abstracts, including wide stripes in contrasting colors, geometric shapes, or prints on a high-contrast background.

High-contrast dressing is also recommended for those with somewhat dramatic personalities- if your coloring isn’t high contrast but you have a big personality, go ahead and try it!

Type 2: Blending and Calm

For those with coloring that blends together, you’ll look nice in separates with colors that “blend” into one another.  This echoes the harmony in your own personal coloring.  It doesn’t have to mean wearing one color from head to toe.  Instead, it’s choosing colors and prints that blend together without contrasting too sharply with one another.

From Style Bubble- Click for Source

This doesn’t mean blending into the wallpaper!  Take your knowledge of what colors work well for you and find the “families” you like within those colors.

Click for source

For example: If brown is a color you can wear, you’ll look great with a deeper dark chocolate color on bottom and a caramel colored top.  A deep red skirt with a same-toned deep pink top could look effortlessly understated.

Click for source

Suggested prints: Abstract prints in “tone on tone” colors.  Stripes and other geometric shapes are also great, look for smaller shapes and colors that harmonize gently.  Florals usually work very well for this type of coloring.  Floral prints often don’t have enough “punch” for high-contrast coloring, but suit blending and calm dressers quite well.

Click for great article on “monochromatic” dressing- I consider this “blend” dressing. Monochromatic is next…

This look is also useful for “going incognito”- if you want to fly under the radar, blend in and go about your daily life.  Use of color is key here- neutrals for “in cognito” and the colors that suit you best for “understated”.

Type 3: Monochromatic

“True” Monochromatic, at least by my reckoning- Style Bubble Again, click for source

Monochromatic dressing fascinates me.  It’s often spotted on female politicians and world leaders.  I consider “monochromatic” to mean the same color from head to toe, even accessories in most cases.  Wearing different tones of the same color belongs to Type 2- at least to my way of thinking.  Monochromatic dressing is an assault of a single color.

Click for source- silly article

Hilary Clinton- very often seen sporting brilliantly colored suits.

The Queen’s Pantone Chart!

• Queen Elizabeth of England- Pantone made a Queen Color Chart to celebrate that she’s a Queen of One Color.

Click for source

• Angela Merkel- Usually wears a bright blazer, often a suit.

• Yulia Tymoshenko- Former Prime Minister of Ukraine, often seen in 1 color head-to-to, usually a quiet shade.  Also sports avante garde fashion.

Apparently, monochromatic dressing can make you look slimmer, taller, and by now it probably cures cancer.  Here’s what I like about it- monochromatic dressing makes a very strong visual statement of power and self-confidence.  A long block of any color will always draw the eye- even black (and sometimes, especially black!).

Many of these female politicians work in pretty masculine settings.  Men who wear black suits, sometimes blue.  Against this masculine backdrop, the female politicians clad in bright colors stand out even more than they might without the sea of dark suits.  They’re not lost in the crowd, the crowd of powerful men is their backdrop.

Some of Thatcher’s suits from the 70′s just sold for $31,799

While these women might dress to make a visual statement (so people can easily spot you in the crowd/on tv/ in the news), they don’t seem to be dressing this way to look slimmer or taller.  I suspect they’d use different cuts in that case.  In some cases, these colors aren’t necessarily “their” colors.  These women leaders transcend fashion rules because they influence the world in other ways.

(I know some critics bag them for it, but I just can’t listen to anyone badmouth a smart, hard-working woman on the basis of her clothes.)

Can I talk about age?  I’m only 27, but I hang out with a fair few women older than me and I hear things.  They’re interesting people, I keep my ears open.  One thing I’ve heard about repeatedly is the invisibility that comes from being a woman of a certain age. You feel like no one sees you, you are unnoticed and therefore unimportant.  Color will get you noticed, and if the Queen can do it and still be a lady, so can you!

I don’t think Hilary Clinton is the only strong, confident older woman in the world.  Why not use color to signal confidence and power in your dressing?  I really like the monochromatic look on an older woman, and have long puzzled why it tends to suit older women so well.  This look isn’t limited to pants suits, either.

It’s Power.  Wisdom.  Confidence.  That’s monochromatic dressing for you, when done well.

click for source

If you’re a younger person dabbling in monochrome, I’d suggest keeping the cut simple and cleavage/legs to a minimum.  Monochromatic dressing is powerful, eyes will be drawn to you.  If you’re also showing some skin, you may look like you’re trying too hard to get noticed.  Skin + monochrome = “look at me!  look at me!  look at meeeeeeeeee! No one paid me enough attention when I was 4!!”

Your Turn!

Which type do you tend to follow?  What do you think about monochromatic dressing?

I have some ideas for the next posts exploring color and wardrobing, what would you like?  A discussion and guide to choosing tones and shades on intensity?  A look at the Hippocratic method (please, please!)?  Accessories and color?  Or something else?

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Also— OH!  So excited!  I got Annele’s package from MakeBra!  She slipped me an extra!  One size is my “size” according to the traditional measurement method.  The other two are sizes taking into consideration my bust-proportion issues.  The larger underwires are exactly the shape I need, so I’ll try those two first.  The cup sizes should be the same, with different bands.  I’ll get to dabbling a bit in the evenings this week, and be sure to let you know what happens!  I’ve never sewn a bra before!!

I know I did this to you before- I sat down to write one post, discovered I wrote two and had to divide them.  This post is for those who are new to wardrobing and for those who have magpie fabric buying habits and would like to learn another way to shop.

I won’t wait until next week for the follow up post, I’ll publish that next- including the palettes because they go along with the text!  This post is a related side note inspired by Scared Stitchless.

This week I focus on practicalities regarding wardrobing and color.

Planning = Efficiency

Learning what colors work best for you is the first step toward building a cohesive wardrobe and making the most of your sewing time.  It’s vital because once you understand what colors work for you, you can limit yourself to buying fabrics only from your favored palette.  When you do this, it’s easier to sew clothing that looks like it belongs together.   It takes less thought to put together an outfit in the morning.  You’re also more likely to wear the lovely piece you invested your time, skills and money to create.

Terra Incognita- Indonesian Batik Cotton, click for post

This is a good thing.  Once, my sewing friend Enid and I were passing a lazy afternoon at home.  I felt “odd socks” and cold when I woke up that morning so I put together a bright blue shrug, my Terra Incognita dress, and a pair of cropped jeans with pink toe socks.  Enid paid me a great compliment: “I don’t know how, but your clothes always look like they belong together.  Even when they don’t.”

I was tickled.  My clothes look like they belong together because I tend to fabric shop for myself from a pretty strict palette.  It’s deliberate.  I have fun with it, I don’t let it be a burden.   Color is the absolute foundation of building a wearable wardrobe- people seem to respond to color more strongly than to the cut.

When I go fabric shopping-

If I spot a good deal on nice quality fabric in one of my foundational colors, I don’t hesitate to snap it up even if I don’t have an immediate project in mind.  Bottom weight linens, stretch wovens, linen knits, merinos and organic cottons in my colors will always have a place in my home if I can afford them when I see them.   On the other hand, if I go out looking for a particular fabric and don’t find it, I come home empty-handed.  Period.  I come home empty-handed quite often, which is why I so readily buy when I find great basics.

It is not “rude” to go into a fabric store and leave with nothing.  I hear that and it drives me nuts.  The shop exists to serve you.  If you can’t find what you’re looking for, go gently accost one of the sales staff and politely let them know what you’re looking for.  You may have overlooked something the sales staff can point out, or you may have just influenced the next round of fabric purchasing for the shop.  You never know until you ask.

While we’re on the topic of fabric-buying…

The Downfall of Binging on Prints and how to break the habit

Binging on quilting cotton prints for apparel sewing is a common bad habit.  It used to be my worst sewing vice.

I won’t tell you not to buy prints.  Do it.  Fine with me.  Spend heaps of cash on quirky fun quilting cottons and gleefully stitch them into one-off garments that probably won’t match each other very well.  All those novel prints are just screaming to be made into tasteful garments that definitely don’t look “home-made.”  You’ll wear those quilting cottons all the time and never ever stuff them into a deep dark corner of your closet to hide the guilt.    I say this sincerely- It’s your sewing.  You should do with it whatever you like.   Sew with joy.

When you’re over that and want to make clothes that look like “clothes,” like Scared Stitchless, then we can talk.    If you’re feeling cranky about my last paragraph, go read her recent post on sewing with quilting cotton.  I like her writing, and we’re in the same time zone!  I read her post and felt like I could have written that a few years ago.

I’ve only been sewing my own “daily wear” clothes for the past five years or so.  When I first started, I too was attracted to bright and happy quilting cottons.  Compound that with the fact I worked in a quilt shop and got a deep discount on delicious, high-quality prints.

My husband had to remind me a few times that I should be paid in money, not fabric.

I found myself at the same point as Scared Stitchless, wondering how to sew clothes that looked like clothes.   I was also slightly horrified by the mess of quilting fabric garments in my closet.  The stitching was quite good as a rule, but they still didn’t look right.  If you are looking for a way to improve the overall tone of your apparel sewing, I have a simple suggestion: buy solids.

Do it.

All the time.

Air kicks in my teal Clovers. Click for post.

Choose solids.  It’s a very simple but transformative move.  If the pile of fabric waiting to be sewn makes you yawn a little bit, then yawn and sew anyway.  While breaking my quilting-fabric-as-apparel habit, I made a rule. If I looked at the fabric I chose and wasn’t slightly bored by it, then it wouldn’t work as a finished garment.

Instead, focus on the quality of the fabric, the texture, the fiber content and the quality.  Focus on the lightness and durability of the sewing.  Focus on fit.  Focus on being able to run, sit, squat, and do rad air-kicks in your new make.  Find some cool patterns with interesting cuts- a great cut in a solid looks much better than in a print.  There’s plenty going on with garment construction to keep you interested without binging on a wardrobe of semi-unwearable prints.*

Mix in a few stripes, checks, plaids, and simple abstract prints/weaves for variety.

Try to challenge yourself to sew x number of solid, striped, or checked garments for every 1 with a crazy print.  Once you start sewing this way, you’ll see it makes a difference in the overall wearability of your sewing.

You may find the crazy prints disappear altogether from your wardrobe.  I like crazy prints, I really do- I use them in quilts, crafts, toddler clothes, linings, pockets, inner collars, potholders, cushion covers and for bags.  Sometimes I staple cool prints over stretched canvases and hang them on the wall.  Generally speaking, these days crazy prints and quilting cotton have no place in my wardrobe.

click for source. I guess I’m an enabler.

That said, I might make one skirt with a crazy print this summer.  Maybe.  Because skeletons shin-digging across a bright blue pleated A-line skirt is sometimes just what I need to get me through the day.

What do you think?  Is it worth developing the habit of buying only well-chosen solid fabrics?  Experienced sewists- do you sew this way?  How does that work out for you?  Do you use stripes/plaid/simple abstracts in your sewing?  If you’re an adamant quilting-cotton addict and you like it that way, I’m interested to hear from you!

Oh- and check it out, Annele from MakeBra weighed in on the Bra sizing debate.  Go check it out in comments.  She also wrote to me personally on the subject and was incredibly kind, accommodating and helpful.  This makes me even keener to start my own Make Bra!!

Name results at publishing time… ;)

And don’t forget to vote to Name That Lady for the cover of Tiramisu!  Vote early and vote often… I’m giving away a 3m length of a very tasteful navy blue polka dot cotton jersey.  More on the red soon…

(*Just for clarity- in this post I’m talking about quilting cotton prints, fashion prints on proper apparel fabric are a bit different.)