For the last night of The Circus, I brought in some clowns to show you my favorite methods of hemming on knits:
Mock Coverhem and Mock Mock Coverhem- Mock Coverhem uses a twin needle and is flexible, Mock Mock Coverhem involves one needle and two careful lines of stitching. It does not stretch much. Both methods use fusible webbing for stability and control.
Most of these techniques will work quite well on wovens.
I had an ulterior motive behind The Circus, to test some of the ideas I’m working on for the Cake site. The new site won’t be like a blog exactly, but a complement to the patterns. I do hope you’ll like it, and when you visit you’ll see pieces of The Circus scattered about. It’s not video-heavy, I’ve been playing with videos this week to see if I like making them, and if you like seeing them. Let me know.
This is more of a short chat about raw knit hems and why it’s ok to do them. I also demonstrated a raw edge “stitch” which is simply a line of long-ish stitches to prevent the edge stretching profusely or “running.” While knits don’t fray, sometimes a cut edge will run like a crazed lion after his tamer.
Here I’m showing how to apply fusible webbing to the knit edge to secure the hem. If you wish, you can finish the raw edge before applying the webbing and stitching.
Fusible webbing comes in handy all over my sewing room. I use it to position the zipper in a fly like Debbie Cook; I also use it to position patch pockets. This is particularly useful on thick or bulky fabrics.
I can hem a circle skirt pretty painlessly using fusible webbing and then stitching as usual. I would recommend finishing the raw edge before applying webbing for this application.
As I sat stitching, the two mock coverhems I sewed with the twin needles looked very different. In the video, I can see they’re both ridged. There’s two fixes to this- I could continue adjusting the tension a little at a time until I found the “sweet spot” on my sample sewing. Or I could just press it and hope for the best. It’s up to you.
The blind hem can be used on stable medium to heavy weight knits. I remember learning to blind hem on the sewing machine was a BIG revelation in my sewing, and it works pretty well for some knits. It’s always prudent to stitch a sample before hemming the garment, just to see how it works with the fabric/thread/stitch combination.
Peek at the Tiramisu Pattern Instructions:
This is the Construction Overview that takes up a large portion of the front of the instruction sheet:
The seams are all numbered, the numbers correspond to steps on the back page of the sheet. I hope this will help “visualize” the sewing process. (“I sew the what to the where?”) I’ll be sending the instruction sheet around the Cake email newsletter next week sometime for you to have a look, so do sign up if you haven’t already.
Thank you, thank you so much for coming to The Circus! And from the bottom of my heart, thank you for supporting the Tiramisu pre-sale. Cake Patterns wouldn’t happen without your encouragement as I continue work through the pattern production process (we’re so close to the finish line!), and it wouldn’t be happening so soon without your support of the pre-sale.
I know I live in the future for many of you, so I won’t close the pre-sale until midnight Friday in Humptulips, USA to avoid any crossed wires. Visit Etsy to take advantage of the pre-sale before midnight Friday.
I need a few days unplugged. Just a few, I have a scheduled post for the weekend and when I come “back,” I’ll revert back to 3-4 posts a week. The post on sourcing Eco Fabrics and Knit Drapes didn’t make it into this Circus, I opted to address other issues of threads and feet and machines that came up. I’ll publish those fabric posts, and the series on overlockers/sergers as well as family sewing, quilting and my usual etc. So many posts, so little time!
While I’m unplugged, I’ll still be answering alterations emails. I just need a few days to mostly step away from the computer.