Worn with my pinstriped Bow Tie Tee
And so I complete the Clovers. After muslining my Pants Block, using the block to alter the Clover pattern, removing the excess back thigh fabric from the inseams, then from the side seams, these Clovers are finished.
I wish I hadn’t tried to be clever with the pocket flaps. I had also thought to make some cool shaped cuffs, maybe embellish with some contrast buttons but I’m not interested in prolonging my work on these pants. Besides, it would probably look super weird to anyone who isn’t me.
I’m pleased with the results, but I’m not completely sure they’re my style. I feel exposed. They’re pretty much the polar opposite to my favorite below-the-waist-garments- Katharine Hepburn style trousers.
We tried several poses and activities to illustrate mobility. Stephen said “Go run and jump and do some rad air-kicks.”
These pants don’t slip and show crack even when I’m bending over to run up a hill. Or when I’m sitting down, but you really *really* don’t want to see those photos. I have some muffin topping going on, I get that any time my pants sit below the waist. My solution (usually) is to wear pants and skirts that sit at my waist.
“Maybe I’m styling these wrong,” I thought to myself as I dug around for a tunic-length top. Almost every top and shirt I own is closely fitted and ends just above the curve of my backside. I wear a lot of full skirts and full trousers, so fitted tops harmonize with my usual choices but seems skimpy with this pants cut. Or maybe I’m just not used to it. While I was searching, I turned up this shirt I made last year. It was worn for a theatre production of Don Quixote.
I would fain have donned the doublet for the photos, but the color clashed with teal. Also, I have not a codpiece. Another time. I should write a post soon about this shirt, I haven’t taken it off all day. Dare I wear this out? Hmmmm…. probably not.
At any rate, I feel like I “cracked” the Clovers so I’m happy.
By the way, I found this interesting passage in Pepin’s Modern Pattern Drafting from the 40’s. It’s referring to “bathing trunks” in the pants chapter, but the shape of the draft makes sense to me, and her explanation of the change in crotch shape necessary when working with jersey. Why couldn’t I have found this two weeks ago?
If you’d like to work with me to fit your own pair of stretch pants/trousers, do email me. (Yours don’t have to be as closely fitted as mine, I just wanted to prove to myself I could do it!) The Consulting Dressmaker charges $15 to guide you through the process, I’ll be there to answer all your questions and help dispel your fit issues.
If you’d like a custom-drafted Pants Block to help you reliably alter commercial pants/trousers patterns, click here and fill in the form. Other Blockers have had great results, I love helping to fit pants.
And Brisbane… I’m teaching a day-long workshop at Piece Together called “Perfectly Fitting Pants” and only 3 spaces are left! It’s on July 14, please visit Piece Together for more information and to register.
In other project news- I have over 350 data sets for the Waist-To-Hip Ratio survey. That’s amazing! When I set a goal of 300, I didn’t expect to reach it so quickly. The more numbers I have to play with the better, so I’d appreciate any and all contributions. I’m making some charts, crunching some numbers and scratching my head so I can show you on Saturday what I’ve been working on. Interesting stuff. Thank you so much for helping me! Y’all are amazing.