I finished the Duchess of Cambridge top- for all that I used fancy fabric, I have a suspicion the name may be a little grand. Check it out at Sew Weekly. I’m wearing her here with my Pinkie Pants, my first foray into the world of fitting slim cut stretch pants. I almost haven’t taken them off since I made them (ewwww) because they’re so comfy and seem to work with most of my tops.
I started working on fitting stretch-slims with some of my Pants Block clients*. It kept coming up. The block works well for light/medium to heavy weight wovens: regular trouser fit through wide-leg, that is. This month, I’m on a mission to use my own block to “crack” the Colette Clover pattern. Once I work out the method I’ll be a better teacher/block drafter. I chose Clover to work with because it’s ubiquitous and simple. Once I nail the fit it will be fun to play with the Clovers- add some pocket flaps here, a cuff there, and maybe go nuts with fun seaming. I have two other lengths of the same fabric I used for the Pinkie Pants, but in teal and in khaki.
The first step is muslining the block. I made myself a block from scratch to document the process of working on the block. Also, I recognize that for many it’s a little nerve-wracking to email awkward shorts muslin photos for fitting so I thought I’d embarrass myself publicly with similar shots so we’re all equal.
I scooped out the front crotch seam by about 1/4″, tapering to nothing in the straight part of the CF seam. I did the back much the same way, but tapered it much sooner on the curve because I didn’t have any problems with the back.
Sometimes the muslins need much more tweaking than this, which is fine. I’m more than happy to work at your own pace on the fitting, and it’s not easy to stump me. I’ve been staring at wrinkly backsides for quite some time now.
At any rate, if you’ve been curious about the process of fitting the block, that’s about it. I send you the block, you send me photos, I suggest the alterations, and we work on it until the issues are resolved. I had a few hiccups along the way in developing the service (tech issues, language issues- now I tend to just use diagrams, much easier), but I’m confident now with fitting pants via email.
If you’re curious about what the block looks like, you can check out the sample pdf I uploaded here. If you choose electronic delivery, this is what you will receive (except calibrated to your measurements, of course). I’m also increasing the prices on the Pants Block service as of the 13th- my next drafting day. The new prices will be $40 for a block with postal delivery and $45 for electronic delivery. They’re $30 until the 13th.
I’m really excited to tell you all I’m running this as a class next month at Piece Together in Brisbane! It’s a one-day pants fitting workshop on Saturday, July 14. I’ll draft your custom block before the first class and we’ll spend the first part of the workshop tweaking your muslin. Once that’s done, we can work on the trousers/pants/jeans pattern of your choice. I’ll show you how to use your block as a reliable alteration tool, and we’ll finish the hard parts on your project- at least the fly and the pockets, though with 6 hours on our hands I’m sure we can get some great work done! This is an intermediate to advanced sewing class, at least basic knowledge of sewing is required.
Click here for more details and to register online. I only have 7 spaces and expect them to fill quickly. The ladies who run Piece Together did a fantastic job of creating a streamlined way to register and pay online- no hassles or bothers.
Whew! That was a lot… The whole point of a properly fitted block is to use it as an alteration tool. In the next post on Pants, I’ll show you step-by-step how to alter Clovers using this block. I might slip in a few fun potential design features, too- oooh! I just had a thought! If I’m using Clovers, I can make a fun pdf of pocket flaps and cuffs to share! Now I’m itching to get started on these!
Coming Attractions: Friday Night Extras (new series!) and The May Hack. I’m really, really loving the hack.
*If you and I made a block together and you would like additional help with fitting slim cut pants, please feel free to email me and I’ll sort you out. Otherwise, keep watching this series because it will be helpful to you Blockers especially.