I’ve been working on this post in my head for a little while, it was just a matter of putting crayon to polytrace and photographing and writing coherently about it. After I released the new and shiny Blank Canvas Tee, I had several emails asking where the scoop neckline went. The new BCT isn’t an experiment anymore and I use it as the base for hacks so I thought it would be best to go with a simple high neckline.
This is how to play with necklines without making a mess. It’s just a set of guidelines, once you get your hand in and feel confident, you can do more or less whatever you want for neckline shaping as long as you stay within the “bra-line” and the “point of no return.” I think this is an excellent way to ease into a little light drafting- beginners welcome.
For knit binding, I usually don’t bother measuring my neckline, but cut a long strip of fabric across the stretch 1.5″ (3.8cm) wide and stretch it gently as I sew.
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- This is a reference point, the spot on my throat between the clavicle bones where I can feel my pulse. This is where crew necks generally hit.
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- Now measure down from your throat-point to the lowest point you’re comfortable wearing. I call this the “point of no return” and it’s just above the canyon- so to speak.
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- The other point I use in this tutorial is the “Bra-line.” This is the place your bra strap hits. Measure from your throat point straight over to where your bra strap typically lies. If you want to play it safe, take off 1/2″ (1cm) from this measurement. Anything you do between the “point of no return” and the “bra-line” is really fair game for a neckline. It’s up to you.
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- Trace off the front piece of your base pattern.
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- For bateau, mark the “bra point” by measuring straight out from the cf. Make the mark on the should seam line. Mark another point level with your original crew neckline or up to 1″ lower for a “Sabrina” neckline.
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- Connect the two lines, making sure that an inch or so of the neckline at the CF is perpendicular to the CF fold line, else you’ll have a dip in the front neckline. If you’re wary of drawing curves freehand, use a curved ruler and adjust the positioning of the curved line until you’re pleased.
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- Completed line. If desired, cut the pattern piece whole from paper or drafting medium and “try it on”. You can then tweak it as desired.
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- For a scoop neck- measure down from the original neckline to your “point of no return,” or however low you want your scoop.
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- It’s usually best on a scoop neck to move the “bra point” toward the CF about 1 cm to 1 inch. Otherwise, dramatic scoops tend to stretch and shift and expose underwear (though this can be alleviated by stay-stitching). From there, draw a line perpendicular to your shoulder seam, down the front. It is a guideline primarily, just make sure it extends longer than your “point of no return.”
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- This is the outline of your scoop.
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- Round off the edge on your guidelines so it’s smooth and graceful, blending your line into the guidelines you just drew.
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- Connect the points. Diva-licious.
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- For a steep V-neck, connect the original shoulder point with the CF “point of no return.” This is somewhat more conservative.
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- You don’t have to make the neckline so deep as your “point of no return.” You can make it an inch, several cms or more. Any position between the original neckline and your “point of no return” is fair game.
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- I’m also fond of slightly higher, but wider V-necks. Really, you can do more or less whatever you want here.
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- Square/Sweetheart Necklines- Start by drawing a line parallel to the CF, at least 1″ toward the CF from your “bra line.” I find it’s inadvisable to run too close to the bra line with a square neckline.
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- At your “point of no return” or any point higher, draw a line perpendicular to the CF. For a sweetheart neckline, draw this line at least 1″ higher than your “point of no return.” Viola, square neckline.
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- For a sweetheart neckline, drop down 3/4″ to 1″ (2cm) along the CF line and draw a straight line from that point to the line you drew from the shoulder. If desired, you can get fancy and curve this line between the CF and shoulder line.
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- Once you play with the front, be sure the back neckline matches. It’s easier to do this on the pattern than correct it while you’re sewing. Trace off your back pattern piece.
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- Then lay the front pattern piece with the new neckline on top of the back pattern piece. Align the shoulder seams.
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- Mark on the back shoulder line where the new front neckline overlaps.
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- Now just draw a line from the mark on the shoulder seam to the CB line, either right at or just below the original CB neckline point. Use your sewist sense to draw a curve that looks good or a curved ruler. You could also do something nutty like add a back V neckline or whatever you want, just make sure it won’t show your bra. I find a depth of 8″ (20 cm) is usually on the more daring side of safe.
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- Mark through your original neckline marking so you don’t get confused.
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- To make a neck facing for any of the shapes shown, put another scrap of tracing medium over your new neckline.
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- I favor fairly narrow facings (2″ or 5cm) that I then top-stitch in place or tack at the shoulder seams so they don’t flap around. I hate that. Mark 2″ down from your CF or CB neckline edge.
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- Then I follow the line of the neckline around with my tape measure, marking a dash every so often at 2″ (5cm).
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- Connect the lines, and mark your pattern as desired. It’s a good idea to label all self-made patterns well, I get confused. I use a binder with clear plastic sleeves to store my self-drafted patterns, so much better than a jumble of anonymous white pattern pieces.
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- Alternatively, if you’re working with a knit and would prefer a bound edge, measure your back neckline and then the front. I recommend a facing for square or sweetheart necklines, even on knits, but binding will work well for scoops or V’s on knits.
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- Just follow the curve of the line, being sure to keep your measure aligned with the neckline as you go.
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- Measuring….
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- Once I have the measure for my necklines, I multiply them by 2, because I’m working with half a pattern piece after all.
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- We’re spending the weekend in the country, on the farm where my husband grew up. I’m sitting on a deck overlooking a valley as I write this. I’ll be off the grid for the next couple of days, but still reachable by email, though my response time will be slower.
I want to thank everyone who commented on my last post. I really don’t know what to say except you all blew me away with your kindness, your support, and with how much you were willing to share. I cried when I woke up the next morning and saw all the messages you left (and next time I’m feeling blue, I’ll go back and re-read). Shared burdens are the lightest ones to bear. Thank you.
What a great pictorial tutorial – thank you for taking the time to photo, write and explain. I’m mucking about with T necklines at the minute so your timing couldn’t have been better. Thanks also for your candid sharey post – it’s easy to think that other people have wonderful, perfect lives and that it’s only me who feels this way. Glad you’re out the other side now.
No problem, Ruth… I’m happy to.
Nah, my life is pretty messy.. I don’t think anyone has a perfect life, but it’s easy to think that when you’re looking through screens… :)
You are so loved, Steph. Not just for your generosity, wisdom and sweetness, but for your everythingness. Never forget it!!!!!!! Great post btw, I am getting all intereted in Alabama Chanin style stitchery and knowing how to sashay my way around a knit top is an essential beginning point! xo
I can so picture you sashaying around working on a tee.. ;)
Aw shucks.
Wow Stephanie – this is a fabulous and very useful tutorial. I think it will be something I refer to many times over! Enjoy your weekend in the country. I am sitting looking at the sun set through my big glass door / wall and there is one lonely star shining bright about the sky which is going from an intense darkish blue to a nice lemony colour. The trees are gently swaying and some bats have flown past. Have a blessed and safe Easter xo
Beautiful, Dianne. Thanks for that. :)
Brilliant tutorial. I am gaining confidence now at drafting my own patterns or adapting ones I have so this will be so useful. Have a wonderful weekend…just enjoy relaxing!
We do lots of running around in the country until we’re completely worn out, then we just lie by the pool….
I think for me the biggest hurdle with playing with necklines was I didn’t know I was “allowed” to do it. You definitely are!
Oh this is brilliant… though I’m beginnng to wonder if I really ought to get a curved ruler now. I’m usually pretty good with freehand curves, but recently.. not so much.
Sarah – I totally recommend a curved ruler or a French curve – you can get really reasonable ones even from stationery online stores and they make life so much easier….
I don’t use my curved ruler much, but it does help me make nice clean curved lines…
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Great tutorial! I’ve eyeballed neckline changes in the past, and had an “incident”… it’s so smart to know the depth of your “point of no return” (heeheehee). Thanks for sharing!
Oh dear! Incident. hehhe.
This is great! Thanks for sharing! :)
No problem!
Thank you for this brilliant and generous tutorial! Enjoy your fesh air time :)…..
“Fresh Air Time”- I love it. :)
Great post. All those pictures are fabulous, I’m sure I’ll be coming back to this again in the future.
Cool. Let me know if you have any issues. :)
I just finished up with a “sewing with knits” class and I like your idea for binding. However, a really kewl tip my instructor gave me was taken from swimwear and it will help keep your neckline from stretching out of shape.
Just use 1/4″ knit elastic sewn about 1/4″ from the neck edge. You’ll get the length of elastic from using your tape measure around the pattern (since the neckline most likely has already distorted from handling!) and sew it evenly around the neck. Voila! you now have a neck opening that will not gape, will lie flat against your skin and will not stretch out of shape no matter how many times you wash the garment!
That’s cool, Mary, thanks for telling me… The only thing is, I can’t seem to find any of that elastic here that doesn’t split terribly after a wash or two when it’s been sewn through. It’s worthless. But it does sound like a good tip, thanks!
I like this tip too Mary thank you. I wonder if elastic from Pam Emery’s Fashion Sewing Supplies would be a good idea. It is from the other side of the world though …
Thank you so much for this tutorial. I have printed it out and will put it in my “sewing hints” folder. I have difficulty with necks and getting them just right. Knowing where and how to measure makes it seem fool-proof. Why didn’t I think of that??
Oh wow- did it print ok?
Hi Steph
this has nothing to do with your current post, but, have you entered your Megan dress into Julia Bobbins Mad Men Challenge. I keep checking and I haven’t seen it appear there yet..
cheers
Heidi
Hey heidi–
I’m sorry to disappoint, I didn’t realize anyone would be looking for it! I don’t like the indoor photos and we didn’t get a chance to take outdoor ones before the deadline so I left it.
Hi
That’s a shame, but I think it is a winner..I also think Julia was looking forward to seeing it too, she commented on one of your posts.. It is a stunning dress!! enjoy your break..
cheers
Heidi
Enjoy your break! Thank you for this amazing tutorial…it’s so kind of you to share your expertise like this. It’s very much appreciated.
Sharing is caring… ;) (And the country is so pretty in late summer, I might have to share some photos..)
Ooooh yes please…it’s raining here and some cheer would be lovely!
This is great! Thanks for taking to time to photograph, write up and share :) Straight to Pinterest!
Cool Zo, I hope it helps!
Oh this is great and I’m very grateful – all bookmarked, though I think I’ll even print it out too. I’ve never tried doing a facing on a knit but its a really good idea – don’t know why it didn’t occur to me! Hope you had a lovely weekend with lots of lying by the pool time.
Oh cool, I hadn’t thought to test it as a print out so I hope it goes well. :)
Cool! jsut what I needed – much thanks
:-)
Yeah, no problem. :) I hope it helps your neckline dreams come true.