Remember this tee from Plasticland? This week on Sew Weekly, the challenge is “Make This Look,” which is an interesting regular feature on the blog. The idea is to knock off a RTW dress or top or other garment as closely as possible and show others how to do it.
Tanit-Isis made me a Blank Canvas Tee schematic drawing, thank you Taran! (The other one is just there to the right on the sidebar.) Graphics is not my strong point. I drew in a few lines and buttons to give you an idea of how this draft will work. The only difference between my shirt and Plasticland’s is that I’m using cut-on sleeves, and I prefer shorter tees. I think this design could be styled in several interesting ways, not just nautical.
These hacks are the main reason I wanted to post a tee pattern for download- so I can share simple little drafting exercises, especially geared towards those who would like to draft but don’t know where to start. If you’ve ever wanted to play around with changing a pattern for design rather than just fit, you may want to play with a hack. I plan to publish one a month this year. It’s not too hard, just one step after another.
You can see the finished Sailor Sweetheart Top and details at Sew Weekly.
Begin with your favorite tee pattern. If you’re using the Blank Canvas Tee, please double check your length and ease preferences before you begin this hack, and transfer any changes to your “master” pattern. You’ll need a long-ish ruler (I use a 24″ quilter’s rule), a pen and a bit of paper or tracing medium- a semi-transparent medium works well. I’m using a sharpie as it’s easier to photograph; you can do as you please.
-
- Trace the front of the tee, excluding the neckline.
-
- Position the pattern piece over your body, seams in the appropriate place and CF lined up.
-
- Mark your nipple. This doesn’t need to be precise, but do try to make it as accurate as possible.
-
- Nipple, Clearly Marked
-
- Measure down from the nipple to where your bra band sits to understand where to position the underbust seam. Mine was 3″.
-
- Measure down from the marked nipple point to mark your underbust seam perpendicular to the CF line to the point below the nipple.. Mine was 3″ below the nipple.
-
- From the point under the nipple, angle the line up by about 1/2″ to the side seam, creating a curved line. You may do a straight line instead, but it won’t be as nice.
-
- Draw a line parallel to the CF through the nipple to the shoulder line. It probably won’t meet. That’s fine.
-
- This is the way that line looks.
-
- Use the ruler to follow the angle of the shoulder and extend the shoulder slightly until it reaches the line you just drew.
-
- Measure from the nipple straight up to where you prefer your neckline to lie (in the cf). Mine was 5″, I recommend being conservative because we’ll go a little lower than what you measure.
-
- Measure straight up from the nipple point to where you measured for your neckline preference. Mine was 5″ above the nipple-line. Yours will almost definitely be different- this is a preference thing.
-
- Mark a line from that point to the cf, perpendicular to the cf.
-
- Mark a point 3/4″ (~20mm) lower than the point you just marked on the CF. Draw a line from the new CF point to the point you marked above the nipple.
-
- Lay the front piece over the back pattern piece at the shoulder. You will need to extend the back shoulder line the same amount as the front.
-
- New back shoulder line and CB line- I need to draw a nice little curve to connect the two lines.
-
- It’s ok the raise the back neck a LITTLE. Make sure the curve at the CB is a little bit flat.
-
- View of back pattern piece, completed.
-
- Front pattern piece, with the seamlines marked. The seam on the top section runs from the corner of the neckline straight down to the underbust seam.
-
- Double-Checking I like the neckline before I draft the facings.
-
- Put another piece of paper on top, and trace the neckline, and 1″ along the CF and the shoulder seam edge. You’re making a 1″ front facing piece. Remember to add seam allowances, 1/4″ is my preference.
-
- Put a piece of paper over the CF panel. Trace the piece.
-
- Add seam allowances to all but the CF foldine, and be sure to label your piece.
-
- Put a piece of paper over the lower portion of the front and trace the piece. Add seamlines at the underbust seam, the side seams already have a seam allowance.
-
- Put a piece of paper over the front piece and trace the final upper front piece. Add seamlines to the underbust seam and the neck/ front panel seam.
-
- Make a back neck facing by tracing the back neckline edge. Trace 1″ along the shoulder seam and the CB line.
-
- Then use a ruler to mark a series of dots 1″ from the neckline edge.
I’d be really interested to know if anyone makes this tee- I’ll post the photos of the final garment and construction notes later this week (or keep an eye out on Sew Weekly!). If you find yourself working on this and get lost, just leave me a comment and I’ll fix you up.
I remember when I was first learning to draft; I had no idea where to begin and made mistake after mistake. If you’re like that, try this. The instructions might not make much sense as you sit and read, but if you play with it and actually put your hands on the pattern, you’ll understand what’s going on. By the end of the year I hope to have made a nice collection of fun t-shirt patterns, all made from the same basic tee and available for free.
If you have any suggestions for future hacks (limited to knit tops), email me- stephc (at) 3hourspast (dot) com. If I like it or think it’s interesting, I’ll go for it!
While you’re here, check out the Pants Block Testers Giveaway! I’m beyond thrilled with how the first wave of testers is working out, we should have some good stuff to show you soon!
I PROMISE to post lighter stuff the rest of this week!
Hi Steph, I am reading this on my netbook and the 5 photos with caption format is really squishing up. Is it how you see it too?
Love the sound of it and the look! In fact I wish I’d thought of something like this for my navy and natural tee. May have to make anudder one :)
Yeah– I’m not sure which is the best format for presenting this kind of information… I was trying to avoid a reaaaaaaalllllly long-ish traditional style post- if there’s any wordpress gurus out there who have a better idea than gallery for user-friendliness, let me know!
Really, if you go through and make your pattern look like mine… I took photos at every step so that words would be somewhat irrelevant. But I’m pretty happy to change it around a bit. I want to be useful- constructive criticism is appreciated. :)
It’s such a fun top to wear– I can’t wait to show y’all but I have to wait for Sew Weekly! :)
Also got super lazy on the whale embroidery on the pirate skirt.. I started doing it, hated it, ripped it out, started another design, also hated it, so I think I’ll look around for a fusible whale patch to use… Except surprise, surprise my local Spotlight doesn’t have any decent patches… Beh.
Just found your blog. Well done, Steph, we have a lot in common
I really must get around to making your blank canvas T so I can think about hacks! I’ll get Mr D to print it out for me tomorrow.
And I’ve been checking the Sew Weekly hourly waiting for you post on this to come up!
If I ever manage to get the BCT fitted properly on me, I’m so trying this. Only without the buttons.
Steph, I’ve been hoping for some time to work on the BCT but the kids…well, you know. I’m so into the nautical theme. This is going to be the thing that impulses me to make time for the basic tee so I can work on hacks. And I love that you’re putting this hack out there. I’m just loving your work!
Thanks, Leila! Let me know if I can help you at all. :)
thanks for sharing the whole process, this is very cute! I’ve seen it published on the Sew Weekly blog – a very good ‘Make This Look’
Pingback: “Giveaway” Winners and Understanding Dart Depth « 3 Hours Past the Edge of the World
Pingback: Birds on a Wire | Tanit-Isis Sews
I’ve seen your birds on a wire t shirt & think it looks like THE perfect basic t-shirt, & now this? Possibly the perfect nautical t shirt?!
Very clever! Thanks for all the learnings
No probs. I’ve learned so much from the online sewing community, it’s really fun to “give something back” in my own way. :)
Thanks for posting this. I have added this to my list of links to read through again later when needed! Perhaps I need more coffee?
I know it seems a LOT of info, but I wrote it in such a way that when you’re actually working on it, the directions will make sense. I may offer this as a download-for-a-small-fee pattern later, it’s a LOT of work to grade patterns though. :)
Pingback: Design Inspiration: Bow-Fronts (Ideas for February’s “Hack”) « 3 Hours Past the Edge of the World