Last weekend, I made a set of slopers/blocks/basic patterns based on my body measurements using The Pattern Drafter. This week, I drafted and made my first top. Having lusted after a pair of knickerbockers since last May, I decided to use my pants block to create a pair.
After consulting google images for inspiration, I made an interesting discovery- Plus Fours are so called because the pants measure the length from waist to knee + 4″. I couldn’t let that go by and decided to use it.
I traced my pants, raised the waistline 1″ in the CB and .5″ elsewhere, and measured my waist to knee- 24″. I duly measured 24″ down from the pattern’s waist, then added seam allowances and cut it from my last stashed piece of linen, a lovely shade of deep cobalt.
Later that night, I sat straight up in bed and realized I ought to have added four inches. Honestly, where was my brain?
With less than half a yard of remaining linen, I decided to cut a strip of fabric to add to the bottoms of my truncated plus fours. That worked well enough, but I didn’t want to simply seam the extra fabric to the bottom of my pants. Why not use a fagoted seam and turn lemons into lemonade? A mistake into a design feature…
I finished both the bottom edges of the pants and the top edge of my strips, then folded them under by about .5″.
I tested my idea using scrap linen and various stitches on my machine, #62 yielded the results I wanted.
Most online tutorials involve hand-fagoting by first attaching the fabric to paper and then stitching. I found it was hard to remove the paper so I discarded that idea since I was working with two straight edges.
My execution was not perfect (due to my leadfoot tendencies) but completely serviceable. I did not need to yank the paper from between the joined pieces of fabric after stitching.
I also stole these cute Chinese takeout pockets from my daughter’s Oliver + S Hopscotch pattern:
When your sewing gives you lemons, how do you make lemonade?