She’s basically a woven button front camisole with bias bands. I’m beside myself to have a properly fitting sloper. For as long as I’ve carefully altered patterns to fit my body, I suspected it would work just as well to start from scratch. True that, and now I’m only limited by the inspiration I can scrape together. I feel like this has completely changed my sewing.
I took photos during construction, but it all looks like happy Madras cotton and not much else. In case I need to reference this later (because this is first and foremost my projects notebook):
- Darts and tucks.
- French side seams
- Underarm seams on armbands/facings
- Arm bands to bodice
- Facing to arm bands
- Stitch folded edge of facing down
- Front placket
- Front neck bands sewn to shirt
- Back neck band sewn to shirt
- Shoulder seam
She’s not perfect but I love her anyway. As I trimmed the back neck facing seam, I pinked a hole in the back fabric. Without batting an eye, I interfaced the little hole and darned it. So she’s a casual top, though I wore her to work tonight.
(Scanning the skies)
My boss is an expert seamstress (among her other virtues) with a sharp eye. She criticizes my work constructively with no sugar coating so I learn much from her. For instance, she told me today that busty girls need to make their first buttonhole marking right at the gappage point, and then measure the other buttonholes from the that point. I usually mark the top and bottom buttonholes, then space the other buttonholes evenly so this was a revelation. Also, I should remind Future Stephanie that her tops would gap less with smaller buttons, closely spaced.
Maybe it’s my fat ass, maybe it’s my spine, but I have some major back fit struggles. On my sloper, the CB curves inward over my middle back. I’d apply that to anything with a CB seam, but for a silly little shirt I left it straight.
Worn tucked in and allowed to settle, the blouse follows my natural waist-hip line instead of puffing out. Wicked.
In the class, I marveled how woman after woman sewed up her pants muslin and it fit.
I’m not kidding. I had to re-attach my jaw later that night since it spent so much time on the ground. After my recent pants fitting struggles
, I have no end of respect for the mind who could dream up a way to make pants fit everybody.
This morning I drew up a plus-fours pattern and cut it out. Remember my knickerbockers fixation
? It hasn’t left me these 8 months.
Expect Plus-Fours with Chinese takeout pockets in the near future.