Tricky texture to photograph, the crepe side of the hemp-silk satin. It reminds me of parchment.
Occasionally my pattern choices cause me to question my sanity. A pair of patch pockets proves difficult to match precisely; four – !
The curves could bear extra twiddling and pressing. I used a double row of saddle stitching with a fine, sharp needle. The denim needle I thought to use left needle marks.
As a utility garment, I want the details to remain as crisp as possible through wear and humidity. I know better than to hard-tailor a hemp jacket (unwearable results in the past), but I think a little light tailoring will increase the lifespan of my new sun jacket. I cut a scrap of haircloth for the top of the pocket and fused it to the voile facing.
I trimmed a little from the bottom edge of the facing so the outside edges of the pocket would bend to the inside slightly. My books call this “favoring.”
An unturned, favored edge will buckle when laid flat. Pinking facilitates a smooth curve when turned and pressed- quicker than notching.
I feel snarky about the top left corner, but I know when I stitch and bartack it to the jacket I won’t notice it. A third (or fourth?) line of top-stitching might be in order.
To interface the undercollar, I trimmed the seam allowances from the haircloth and fused.
For the facing, I used Kenneth King’s time-consuming method. Which side of the facing do I want to show in the revers? My first thought was to have the satin side facing out, so it slides over my clothes- would that look odd?